Our daily, unsalted, bread

[Marc]

Many foreign and regional foods are an acquired taste and perseverance is eventually rewarded. Unfortunately though, I've never quite been able to come to terms with the ubiquitous unsalted bread of Umbria, otherwise known as 'pane schiappa'. Bland, dry and anaemic looking, eating it is just about as exciting as biting into the blocks of polystyrene foam that televisions come packed in.

There is a reason for the local bread being this way though, I'm told. Apparently, whilst those hedonistic Tuscans have always had handy caves and cellars, carved out of tufa or limestone, to stash their salamis and hams in, Umbria's clay soils were not suitable for building underground storage. As a result, it became necessary to salt the meats more heavily in order to preserve them from the summertime heat. The unsalted bread thus became the 'antidote' to the saltiness of the cured meats, making them more palateable. Then there's bruschetta, which magically transforms the horrible bread, with nothing more than a drizzle of piquant olive oil and a sprinkling of salt. Walk into any grocery store and the owner will make you a delicious sandwich from the crusty bread and prosciutto at his disposal, for no more than the cost of the ingredients. Much more appetising than anything served-up at Subway.

My bone of contention though is the habit that many restaurants have of plonking a basket of the dry, unsalted bread down on your table with the mineral water, while you are waiting for the first course to arrive. It never fails to evoke the feeling of being in Alcatraz.

If you're out shopping for bread in Umbria and can't find either of the two most acceptable alternatives; the golden Pane Altamura and the crusty but doughy Pane di Genzano, salvation is at hand in even the smallest village bakeries in the form of Pizza di Pasqua; the tall round loaves of cheesy bread with warts, blisters and lumps of delicious grana padana all the way through.

[Relaxed]

I have to agree with you on the bread - but I have heard another story as to why Umbria (and also Tuscany) traditionally do not use salt in bread.

Apparently, the Pope (who was not popular in these regions) in about 1500 said that he would levy a tax on salt. The Pope had under his control the Pontine Marshes, which was the main source of salt. Being bolshy, the Umbrians simply said we are not going to pay your tax- we shall simply not use your salt!! I am quite keen on this story, because it accords with the fact that until about ten years ago it was not possible to buy salt other than at a tobacconist. If you look at an old "tabac" sign you will see that they are offering cigarettes, bolli (stamps) and "sale". Salt was a state monopoly until very recently.

If the bread is very fresh (about 5am!) it is quite delicious, but it has a shelf life of about an hour, after which it becomes a credible building material.

Ah well - apart from salamis and sausages we are not doing a very good job of selling Umbria as a gastronomic destination!!

[Lavender Field]

Marc

My books mention the same story in regards to why the bread is made without salt. In fact, one doesn't need salt to make delicious bread, my belief is that the Umbrians simply haven't insisted on a better product. My neighbours who could buy a decent loaf in town, tend to buy instead from the bread man who comes to our village most days. I've bought from him & wouldn't feed the stuff to the birds.

We have moaned about dolce & pane, but by God, the rest of the food I've eaten here is 1st class & best of all at Montali, a gourmet vegetarian Agritourismo near Panicale, which is listed as 1 of the top 10 vegatarian restaurants in the world. We do have superb food, but you need to know where to find it.

Lavender Field

Do we forget history and traditions - and just go for Pane Morbido - yes I know I am an outsider - does it exist in Umbria?

[Graham Lane]

Actually, I quite like the unsalted bread here and happily crunch on a piece while waiting for a meal to arrive, especially drizzled with a little olive oil.

However, we like to make our own bread and have a Panasonic bread machine, which is said to be the best one to buy. I chuck all the ingredients in last thing at night, set the timer, and wake up to the smell of freshly baked bread at a fraction of the shop cost. I have learnt that a 50/50 mix of whole meal (integrale) flour and plain white type 'O' plus olive oil instead of butter works best. I use the machine to make my pizza dough too and prepare the topping while it churns away making perfect dough. Then there is foccacia, torta al testo, pesto pinwheels, sun-dried tomato bread and pesto and pine nuts.... The list is delicious and endless!

[Marc]

Gnam gnam. Ever thought of running a delivery service Graham?.... you know where we live!

[Anastasia]

Shame we dont like yours!

[pigro]

phew! Good to know I'm not alone. Bread is my one grumble after 3 fab years in Calvi Dell'Umbria

I actually quite like the lack of salt - it allows you to let the flavour of the pasta sauce etc. take centre stage, and as all agree, grilled with good oil & garlic it can be a work of art in its own right - but unless you get a loaf baked within the last couple of hours, the crust is just painful!

I make my own pizza in the UK, and I've found that the double zero flour that was reccomended to me for pizza dough (by local italians) produces a rock hard crust too. Having only had a kitchen fitted on my last visit, I've not yet had time to try with a softer flour, but I hope that will result in a more pleasant base. I like it crisp, but not brittle. if that goes OK, think I'll be following Graham's advice and making my own bread at night.

Lavender Field - 'scuse my ignorance, but where is Panicale? I'm down in Southern Umbria, right at the border with Lazio ... if it's in range I'll deffo give Montali a try next visit!

Ciao!

[Sebastiano]

Originally Posted by Relaxed

I have to agree with you on the bread - but I have heard another story as to why Umbria (and also Tuscany) traditionally do not use salt in bread.

Apparently, the Pope (who was not popular in these regions) in about 1500 said that he would levy a tax on salt. The Pope had under his control the Pontine Marshes, which was the main source of salt. Being bolshy, the Umbrians simply said we are not going to pay your tax- we shall simply not use your salt!! I am quite keen on this story, because it accords with the fact that until about ten years ago it was not possible to buy salt other than at a tobacconist. If you look at an old "tabac" sign you will see that they are offering cigarettes, bolli (stamps) and "sale". Salt was a state monopoly until very recently.

If the bread is very fresh (about 5am!) it is quite delicious, but it has a shelf life of about an hour, after which it becomes a credible building material.

Ah well - apart from salamis and sausages we are not doing a very good job of selling Umbria as a gastronomic destination!!

I agree,here in the Marche the bread is actually worse than in Umbria it's only fresh for half an hour before becoming building material...i keep telling my friend the baker that he'll have to be careful if we get german bakers coming here i could see him being out of work...in the meantime our saltless bread continues.Before being accused of being negative i note that the bread is fantastic around Roma,Napoli,in Sicilia,in Puglia,alto adige,veneto,lombardia ecc so it seems to be only us....

[Relaxed]

Pigro - (Lavender Field is thankfully no longer with us - do not ask!) - but if you fancy trying Alberto Musaccio's vegetarian agriturismo at Montali you will find it under Az. Ag. Montali in the Perugia phone book. It is in the comune of Panicale, which is a medieval hill town (well worth a visit) located close to the SS220 which connects Citta della Pieve with Perugia. I'm sure Google will direct you up the correct white road to find this engaging (although with Fawlty Towers overtones) eating house.