Il Clandestino, Portonovo, Ancona

[annec]

This gets a writeup in the Guardian Travel section today. Its No1 in their list of "Five Best Beach Cafes"

There's also a review here Are you ready to order? This week: Italian special - Il Clandestino, Ancona | Restaurants | Wine | Telegraph
which makes it sound a little difficult to find

It sounds great - has anyone been there/know how to find it?!

[anne2]

There was also a write up raving about it in the Telegraph last year. We came across it by chance having walked along the beach from Portonovo - unfortunately it was winter so Il Clandestino was well and truly shut. However, I remember that there was a parking area nearby with a short walk to the beach - there seemed to be plenty of signs around so I don't think it would be too difficult to find from the road (rather than the beach as we did) and I am sure if you asked anyone in Portonovo they would be able to point you in the right direction. Apparently it has been rebuilt having been destroyed in a winter storm a couple of years ago - neighbours still rave about the meal they ate there before it was washed away. Struck me as being a spot for a romantic meal with a difference as it is literally right on the beach!

[PennyWhite]

thank you thank you both! We are staying in Portonovo for three nights in July, and will look for it, and possibly the grander one too if we feel up to it. Will report back on our return....

[PennyWhite]

Have checked through the links etc, it is the 'baby sister' of Madonnina del Pescatore' restaurant in Senigallia, there is a website etc.
Presumably it would be wise to book a table at the beach cafe in the summer...

[anne2]

Here's the link:

Ristorante Madonnina del Pescatore - Senigallia

only in Italian and unfortunately does not give any directions, but it does give a phone number for reservations and opening times.

[Marinaw]

Good friends of mine went there last week.
These girls are foodies - chefs from N zealand. They went (not understanding much italian) for a couple of choices - both were tinned - apparantly according to the telegraph blurb tinned by the chef though it rather surprised them to note the tin actually said canned in Spain..They were offered fish in hot oil (can had been warmed) or can in cold oil - just as is - opened with a grand flourish at the table. The sushi may be better but they said they were in tears of laughter at the emperors new clothesness of it all. Expensive and pretentious..They really wondered if someone was going to leap out Jeremy Beadle styley pointing and laughing at them for paying 60€ for two tins of tuna, bread and a couple of glasses of prosecco..
They said the location is great but only bother with drinks - they thought it was a rip off. I was amazed - tinned fish on the beach? Would love to know if anyone else has had the same experience..

[liketheroman]

Originally Posted by Marinaw

They said the location is great but only bother with drinks - they thought it was a rip off. I was amazed - tinned fish on the beach? Would love to know if anyone else has had the same experience..

It sounds to me like maybe it is supposed to be a little tongue in cheek or bizarre, maybe they missed that. Surprised as foodies they went for the tuna, you can get that anywhere. For my money it would have to be sushi with an Italian twist for the sheer novelty of it .

[Sebastiano]

Originally Posted by PennyWhite

thank you thank you both! We are staying in Portonovo for three nights in July, and will look for it, and possibly the grander one too if we feel up to it. Will report back on our return....

I won't be going to the clandestino again.Tried it once paid Euro 50 per person (which is not expensive for a fish meal) only it wasn't a meal it was just a couple of sushi equivalents a head and a bottle of fairly regular wine.For the same money at Portonovo there are a couple of perfectly decent "normal" fish restaurants on the beach where you'd be having everything from antipasto thru to dessert with plenty of good wine etc.
i'd also advise to be careful of Madonna del pescatore running at around Euro 200-240 p.p. unless you're particularly fond of black chocolate on oysters (my god)honestly haven't been there but have had Swiss guests here who did and they reported dutifully.
If you're interested about 1 mile from Portonovo there is a beach called Mezzavalle, this can only be reached either by sea,an extenuating climb down a very steep wooded cliff or by walking along in the sea at the base of the cliff running north of Portonovo,the beach itself is very deep about 2-300 metres and about 1-2 kms long ,for the above reasons it's frequented by mainly younger people as children ,the elderly and infirm can hardly get there
a great place for a whole day at the sea.at the top of the beach there is an almost asian style large hutment complex with reed matted pergolas where you can have a very simple but supriising meal of fresh fish and shellfish which the owner catches himself..it's very rustic..and his home ,made verdicchio is excellent.Curiously enough the beach has/had a web site!
which should be www.mezzavalle.com
have a good holiday.

[PennyWhite]

Thanks for that Sebastiano, however web link did not work.

[annec]

Tried that link Sebastiano but it didn't work.

However, this site
Mezzavalle
seems to have been set up by an Italian photographer with lots of info about all the Conero beaches. (I've pointed you to the one on Mezzavalle but the site contains masses more). Lots of fab photos too

This site
Benvenuti nel sito
gives a helpful map if you click on the tab that says "costa".

Definitely trying out this beach this June

Have now found the mezzavalle site -
MEZZAVALLE.net

Anne