Magnificent MARATEA
After the roasting drive from Naples some 200 kilometres to the north, the prospect of the glistening turquoise waters of the Gulf of Policastro is indeed a welcome sight. This is the first glimpse of Basilicata’s short but beautiful 30 kilometre Tyrrhenian coastline. What it lacks in length is more than made up for by its dramatic beauty as the thickly wooded rocky slopes of the Lucania Apennine mountains greet the crystal clear waters. The chief town of Basilicata’s coast is Maratea, a most agreeable settlement, no longer exactly undiscovered, but still relatively uncrowded. It is well-equipped to offer visitors an attractive and unspoilt base for exploring the coastline or to make the occasional excursion into the hot interior of Basilicata – possibly to see the ancient Roman site at Grumento or the beautiful Parco Nazionale del Pollino. If you want to avoid the hazards of driving out of Naples, a regular train service stops at Maratea on its way down to Reggio Calabria at the very toe of Italy.
Maratea Town
Known as the city of 44 churches – around every corner there seems to be another place to pray. These days they aren’t very busy with worshippers but it is worth visiting at least one or two of their number even if it is just to savour the architecture. San Vito, situated on the edge of town, is the oldest and dates back to 11th and 12th centuries with 15th-century frescoes and a 19th-century campanile. In the centre you will certainly notice the Church of the Annunciation on Via San Pietro, its doorway flanked by a pair of ancient stone lions and an obelisk bearing a statue of San Biagio.
Needless to say there is a lot more to do in the town than visit churches. During the summer Maratea hosts a series of concerts and a folk festival as well as various ballet, theatrical and gastronomic events. However, at any time of year it is a pleasure to just wander around the beautiful unspoilt medieval centre, perhaps stopping to visit some of the numerous craft, clothing and food shops or sample one of the vast range of local limoncello liqueurs on sale in several shops. All this in an atmosphere of friendliness as locals beckon you in to sample their drinks, cheeses, sausages, biscuits, or breads. Stop at the Pasticceria Iannini in Vicoletto Rovita to sample their delicious citrus pastries or chocolate.
Unexpected Surprises
It is not hard to fall into step with the unhurried way of life that most locals seem to enjoy, especially as the summer temperatures start to climb. From Piazza Buraglia at the foot of the town centre walk up Via Cavour to Piazzale Santa Maria Maggiore, named after the principal church in town, a building started in the13th century and developed continuously afterwards. From here narrow streets, alleyways and steps climb up into the heart of the compact old town where you can wander and sample the unexpected surprises. Peeling paintwork to delight the artist, shrines hewn out of the cliff face to halt the pious, cheeses drying in the warm air to cheer the foodie, a sad magpie in a brass cage on a balcony to anger the birdlover. The local tourist office in Piazza del Gesù can give you details of the town and its historic churches and buildings.
Perched above the upper town is La Locanda delle Donne Monache, a former convent with an attractively decorated interior and an excellent restaurant. Its garden, fringed with bougainvillaea and lemon trees, has a swimming pool, a rarity in the old town centre and a peaceful place for guests to cool off. Apart from hosting a range of gourmet evenings and cookery classes, it is always a reliable place to enjoy the excellent local cuisine, especially the seafood and a carefully selected list of Italian wines.
