Santa Margherita’s elegant turn of the century palazzos and churches are graceful silhouttes in the dark; the snug embrace of the marina wraps big white yachts and dark wooden fishing boats; and, out to sea, the silvery glow of the moon colours the midnight blue waters. The mingling scent of pine and salt perfume the night and gentle music drifts up from the bay.

But, lovingly arranged on the table, lies a feast to rival with the views outside. Tiny, shiny Taggiasca olives, dazzling red and yellow peppers, slim, white anchovies glistening in pale golden olive oil and lemon juice—and that’s just the starters.

Their purpose is to tickle the palate and get it ready for the creamy green marvel that is real pesto, the aroma of basil billowing in the mouth in a perfect counterpoint to the reassuring plainness of potatoes, green beans and homemade trofie. There follows a pesce del giorno al forno, the fish of the day baked Ligurian style, drizzled with oil and lemon and couched with olives and potatoes, all rigorously washed down with a glass of clean, crisp Vermentino. And then fruit and a marvellously zesty lemon sorbet while the air becomes cooler and the lights and sounds of the bay fade into silent darkness.

La Stalla dei Frati serves traditional Ligurian food and views in equal measure. It is hard to tell which one is best.

La Stalla dei Frati, Via Pino 27, Nozarego (+39 0185 289447). Closed on Monday.