Words by Christine Webb

Modena still remains the ‘prosperosa’ and ‘splendida’ city that Cicero described. Once notorious as the stage for the war between Brutus and Mark Anthony, today it is better known for Pavarotti, Maserati, Ferrari and balsamic vinegar. Although it is full of artistic and cultural treasures, as the centre itself is compact Modena in a day is both a manageable and pleasurable feat.

From the train station, cross at the traffic lights, and take a left onto via Orsola. Follow the road around onto Corso Vittorio Emanuele and then Corso Cavour, where we will make our first stop at the Giardini Pubblici and Town Hall. As well as providing information, the Town Hall is also part of the Galleria Civica, and often presents exhibitions.

In the spring and summer months, the park is full of modenesi relaxing in the sun. Regardless of the weather, the park provides a pleasant stroll.

On exiting the gardens, head straight up the chic Corso Canal Grande – lined with elegant shops. Turn right onto via Emilia, the infamous Roman road connecting the cities of Emilia-Romagna, from Piacenza to Imola, in a straight line. This will lead you to the heart of the city: the cobbled streets of Piazza Grande. It cannot be overlooked due to the imposing Torre Ghirlandina, the magnificent marble bell tower rising 87 metres in the centre of the square: a symbol of the city.

International recognition

The Duomo, Ghirlandina and Piazza Grande have been listed as UNESCO World Heritage sites since 1997 due to the ‘creative genius’ involved in their construction.

The cathedral, begun in 1099, is considered to be one of the greatest masterpieces of the European Romanesque due to Lanfranco’s architectural structure and Wiligelmo’s beautiful sculptural work on the façade. It is open every day, from 9.30am-12.30pm, then 15.30 to 19.00pm.

For excellent panoramic views of the square, the adjacent Torre Ghirlandina can be climbed on Sundays, from April to October, 9.30 to 12.30, and 15.00 to 19.00.

The L-shaped Palazzo Communale holds the legendary Secchia Rapita (stolen bucket), which was stolen from Bologna by the Modenese in 1325 in the battle of Zappolino. It later inspired the famous mock-heroic poem ‘La Secchia Rapita’ by Alessandro Tassoni.

Other points of interest are the Sala del Fuoco, with frescoes by Nicolo’dell’Abate painted in 1546, and the Sala del Vecchio Consiglio with works by Ludovico Lana, painted in 1633 in thanks for deliverance from the plague. It is open Monday to Saturday 8.00am to 19.00pm, and 15.00 to 19.00 on Sundays and public holidays. It is closed in August, on Easter day and Christmas day.

I would recommend having a coffee at the Café Concerto in Piazza Grande. Though a little pricey, the exquisite interior and spectacular view justify the extra expense.

Break for lunch

Afterwards, retrace your steps back to the porticoes of Via Emilia. On your right you will see Piazza Mazzini and the monumental synagogue, erected in the late 19th century to celebrate Jewish emancipation.

Here you can sample the culinary modenesi delights at the ‘Danilo’ restaurant. Specialities include the tigelle (small unleavened round bread which is typical of the Apennine area, often eaten with salami or cheese), the calorific zampone (stuffed pig’s trotter) or cotechino di Modena (a type of stewed pork sausage), tortellini in brodo alla modenese (small pasta squares folded over a filling of pork, ham and parmigiano reggiano cheese, cooked in broth), salad, obviously dressed with aceto balsamico di Modena, and Vignola cherries in alcohol to finish.
Lambrusco, a sparkling ruby-coloured wine, typical of the region, makes an ideal accompaniment to the meal.

On returning to via Emilia, continuing westward, you will reach Piazza Sant’Agostino and the notable building of the Palazzo dei Musei.
It is made up of three floors, which include:
- the Estense Library, containing the famous Bible of Borso d’Este, a masterpiece of Ferrarese illumination (15th century);
- the Estense Gallery – one of the most important Italian collections including works by Bernini, Velasquez, Correggio and El.Greco;
- the Civic Museums.

I would recommend at least a couple of hours to explore the various works.

Although all held in the same building, the various museums have different opening times and prices. The Estense Library is open Monday to Saturday 9.00 to 13.00; the Estense Gallery, Tuesday to Sunday 8.30 to 18.30; the Civic Museums, Tuesday to Saturday 9.00 to 12.00 then 15.00 to 18.00, and on Sunday from 10.00 to 13.00 then 15.00 to 19.00. A one-price ticket can be bought to see all attractions.

Where the action is

For those more interested in abstract expressionism, there is the option of action painting, just around the corner on viale della Cittadella.

This exhibition, in association with Peggy Guggenheim, includes works by Pollock, Kline, Rothko and deKooning. From here, walking around Parco Novi Sad will lead you onto the quaint via Taglio. If peckish, you can have a tasty aperitivo at the Utah Café along this road.

Taking a left onto via Farini will lead you to Piazza Roma, facing the striking Palazzo Ducale. Part of the Este Court for two centuries, the Palace is now the seat of the Military Academy.

Hence, you may see soldiers parading in their traditional, shiny uniforms around this area. The palazzo is open every Sunday with guided tours at 10 and 11.00 a.m. However, it must be noted that advanced booking is required.

Finally, turn onto via Tre Febbraio, then left onto Corso Cavour and straight on along via Ganaceto to head back to the train station.

This gastronomic and cultural taste of Modena should be enough to satiate most appetites. However, in this land of stylish motors, car lovers in particular may hunger for more.

With various museums and private collections dedicated to motor vehicles, all within a radius of only a few kilometres, it may be worth lingering just a little longer.

Map of Modena

Download a printable map of Modena