Bresaola (inspired by an Italian wedding)

I cannot now recall just how many courses were served as we sat around a dozen or so refectory tables in a sea of animated conversation, but each was a delight. This was Italian food at its best, the finest ingredients, prepared simply but with care for detail. No Italian meal is complete without a pasta dish, and on this occasion, as is often the case at festive meals, there were two.

The piece de resistance, produced with a splendid theatrical flourish by two elegantly dressed waiters, was a huge carpa regina (queen carp) from the lake, grilled to perfection; moist and with a flavour that managed to be both delicate and full.

The wedding meal started with an antipasto I had never tried before and was, for all its simplicity, quite superb. Fortunately, across the table from me was the owner of a local ristorante who told me exactly how it is made. It is so easy to prepare that every time I serve it I feel as if I am somehow abrogating my responsibilities as a host.

The main ingredient is bresaola, raw fillet of beef prepared in a similar manner to prosciutto crudo; cured in salt, it is then air-dried for about four months and sliced paper-thin when you buy it. Bresaola is the speciality of Valtellina, a valley in Lombardy just south of the Swiss border, and it is said that the best is to be had in Milan. Traditionally it is eaten on its own, and with a hunk of warm crusty bread, a glass of Rosso di Barbera and good company, what could be better?

Well, why not try bresaola con ruccola e parmigiano (bresaola with rocket and parmesan)? Apparently a relatively modern way to eat bresaola, it is an exemplary marriage; the meat’s piquant sweetness with peppery rocket and the saltiness of the cheese make a delicious trio of contrasts.

Preparation

Lay out the bresaola onto individual plates. Make a dressing by whisking together the oil, lemon juice, garlic and seasoning in a bowl. Taste it to check the seasoning and add a little more lemon juice if necessary because the amount of juice needed will depend on how acid the oil is, and on personal taste.

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