Il Palio
Every July 2 and August 16, the medieval Tuscan city of Siena becomes the site of a colourful, bareback horse race heard and seen around the world — and certainly around Piazza del Campo, the town’s centre square, which is covered with a layer of dirt to accommodate this centuries-old tradition.
Running in the race are 10 of Siena’s 17 Contrade, or districts: seven horses participate by right because they hadn’t competed in the previous race and three others are selected by drawing lots. Each Contrada has its own colours, emblem and coat of arms, and it is difficult to overstate the pride the contradaioli, residents of the Contrade, hold for their district.
In the days leading up the race, the city bursts with energy, culminating in a spectacular, colourful parade complete with medieval costumes and performances. With a loud boom, the race begins, and three times around the track (about 90 seconds) later, a winner is declared and given a palio, a painted silk banner created new for each race; the loser, by the way, is the second place Contrada—not the one that comes in last.
This YouTube video gives a great feel for the emotions involved in the Palio:
Siena’s Palio dates back to 1656 when the first race was run in honour of the Madonna di Provenzano, an apparition of the Virgin Mary who had appeared near houses belonging to Sienese military commander Provenzano Salvani.
If you haven’t bought tickets for one of the 33,000 seats for the August 16 race, you can always try to squeeze into the square, which fits another 28,000 standing.
For more information on the Palio, including a full list
of the Contrade, check out IlPalio.org.
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Michelle Fabio is a freelance writer and attorney who has lived in her ancestors’ village in Calabria, the toe of the boot, since 2003. You can read more about Michelle, her writing, Calabrian fiancé Paolo, trilingual (English, Italian, Calabrese) dogs Luna and Stella and experiments in the kitchen at Bleeding Espresso.
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Molto Bene!
Excellent launch for your first feature! The video is exciting, a perfect addition to the fine writing we've always enjoyed from you. I guess this means your 'net connection in Bado is fast enough for streaming video...I'm encouraged!
Thanks for the fabulous welcome everyone!
@ Erin, Susan, Carole, Nino, Jenn, Anon (1 & 2), Gil, and Christina: thank you so much :)
@ Dawn, Scarlett, NYC: Let's go! Book the tix!
@ Joe, crazy and passionate definitely sums up a lot of Italian festivals...always exciting!
@ Girasoli, you lucky gal! Have you written a post about the experience? I'd love to read it!
@ Megan, lots of charm in this festival indeed :)
@ Amanda, thank you so much, and the pleasure is all mine!
@ Karen, glad to see you over here at Italy Mag!
@ Imani, how sweet! Grazie mille :)
@ Miss Expatria, television and video have a way of really making small areas look larger...a very good reason why you should never buy a property based on a video ;)
Brava Michelle. Great
Brava Michelle. Great article and nice video pick! Definitely let us know when you post another one!
Great Job to a great writer !!!
Michelle,
I must say that you have written a wonderful and interesting article. I’ve always wanted to see the Palio,but I have never gone to see the race. I’ve heard tons of stories about the race, but I didn’t know all those interesting details such as the districts are separated by colors and by their coat of arms. Maybe, I’ll have to purchase a ticket for next year’s race to see it all in person. That would be fun. I also love the video with the music!!! It pulled me in, making me feel as if I were there in person watching the Palio. Great job!!!!!
Great article Michelle... I
Great article Michelle... I love the Palio and have a good friend from Siena who's told me countless stories from behind the scenes... it's a crazy and passionate event.
Brava!!
Great article, Michelle. It brought back wonderful memories of my experience standing in the crowd of 28,000 in the Campo. Something I will never forget. Looking forward to more of your articles.
Il Palio
Congratulations Michelle...awesome article! I really enjoyed it!
Bravissima Michelle! Great
Bravissima Michelle! Great article and video. I wish I could say I've seen it in person.
Auguri on many more articles.
Carole
Wonderful!
I look forward to more articles & videos from you, Michelle. Well done!
What great images! I feel
What great images! I feel as though I was there. Thanks for the article. I am good to have to try to work that into my next italy trip!
Great Article!
The article and video really made me feel like I was there! It definitely gives you insight into the charm of Italian life:-)
Il Palio
Congratulations on getting your great article and video published!
Article
Great article, Michelle! Looking forward to reading more of them! :-)
Michelle on Il Palio
Great to see someone as passionate about Italy as Michelle writing here. A pleasure to read such a well researched piece. Brava!
brava!
Michelle great article. I've been to Siena only once and not during the Palio. Your article makes me want to book a tick pronto.
Arlene
Very nice article Michelle!
Very nice article Michelle! I thoroughly enjoyed it, as usual!
What a great article, I love
What a great article, I love it! I wish I was able to get out to see this event myself, it sounds so wonderful.
Perhaps next year.
Thanks for writing about it!!
Scarlett
Palio
A few years ago I visited Siena the day before the great event itself. You're right, the air was filled with excitement and expectation, and all the streets were decorated in the colours of the different 'contrade'. It was great fun. (Not sure I'd go near the centre on the actual day.)
What a fabulous event. Just
What a fabulous event. Just the sort of thing to try and build a trip around! Thanks so much for bringing it to my attention!!
Fabulous
What an incredible way to display your talents, Michelle. Great article and breathtaking video.
Thanks so much for turning me on to this site!!!!
michelle fabio
What a great article!!!!!While I don't typically gravitate to the *tourist* attractions I would definitely love to experience the excitement of the Palio in Siena. Looking forward to more interesting pieces by Michelle Fabio.
Congrats! and YIPPPPEE
Michelle, I was thrilled to see that you will be reporting weekly here. You have become like a family member through my faithful reading of Bleeding Espresso and I am soooooooooooo proud of you.
~Imani~
The Video
Great article! That video is insane, too. The piazza looks so much bigger on film than it does in real life, don't you think? I had no idea it could hold that many people.
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