Words Tara McLaughlin

Courtesy of Martin Scorsese and Francis Coppola, Sicily is inextricably linked to the Mafia in the collective imagination. However, the island has a lot more to offer beyond links to the notorious films and the dark culture of organised crime, protection money, tax evasion and violence. If you know where to look, Palermo has stunning views, Greek ruins and astounding architecture.
Here are three hidden gems to get you started:

1. Monte Pellegrino

Situated 606 metres above the capital city, Monte Pellegrino houses the remains of Palermo's patroness, Saint Rosalia, in an ornate shrine deep inside a cave. The shrine was built after the remains of the twelfth century saint were found in the grotto. Getting to San Pellegrino takes a twenty minute car journey along winding mountain roads. Once you reach the peak, you almost stumble across what appears to be a humble chapel. But the interiors, laden with countless emblems, photographs and prayers, are testament to the importance Saint Rosalia has in the life of ordinary Sicilians. Any local will be happy to relay the poignant story of her life.

According to legend, Rosalia was devoutly religious and she retired to live as a hermit in a cave on Mount Pellegrino. Tradition claims two angels led her to the cavern. Here, she devoted what remained of her life to God. Her time was spent in prayer and reflection and consumed by the physical requirements of self sufficient survival. She died alone in the cave in 1166. Centuries later, in 1644, a lethal plague haunted Palermo, and, during this time, Saint Rosalia appeared first to a sick woman, then to a hunter.

She revealed to him where her remains were situated and told him to bring her bones to Palermo and display them in a procession through the city. Following the apparition, the man did as was requested and, after the procession, the plague ceased.

Since then, St Rosalia has been venerated as the patron saint of Palermo. On the fifteenth of July, many Sicilians take a barefoot pilgrimage to the Saint's shrine, and it is a captivating sight to watch, But Monte Pellegrino is place of beauty, sorrow and spirituality throughout the year, and is well worth a visit. The views from the mountain are spectacular, and it won't cost you a penny.

2. Selinunte

If you are looking for somewhere truly outstanding and memorable on your trip, get yourself to the ancient Greek archaeological site of Selinunte. It is an impressive display of ruins and partially intact temples on the Southern coast eight miles southeast of modern Castelvetrano, approximately an hour’s drive from Palermo.

The city (Greek Selinus) was founded about 628 bc by Dorian Greek colonists and from the early 6th century BC its inhabitants engaged in strenuous battles with citizens of the adjacent city of Segesta. Nonetheless, Selinunte was so prosperous that Greek historian Thucydides felt the need to comment on its wealth. Eventually, though, Carthaginians invaders put an end to it all. They first destroyed it in 409 BC, then in 250 BC, and after this second blow the city never recovered.

Today, Selinunte's ruins include the walls of the ancient acropolis, and the astoundingly well-preserved remains of several fine temples - five on the acropolis and three on a hill to the east of the city. They are rare examples of Doric architecture; in particular, one of the temples - apparently dedicated to the god Apollo - is among the largest known to have existed in Greek times. Even better, for just €6 a head you can be transported by golf buggy out to the entire settlement.

3. Acque calde

Literally meaning “hot water” acque calde is something even the hospitable Italians will be reluctant to share with you. These sulphur pools of hot springs can be found around 20 minutes drive from Palermo on the outskirts of the quaint fishing village of Castellamare. Sicily’s volcanic terrain ensures warm pools crop up throughout the island, but this particular one is an experience not to be missed. It is set in a tranquil valley flanked by mountains, so you can soak up the views while the water de-stresses your body.

And although the temperature is initially shocking, once submerged, it is sheer bliss. It is a spa experience to rival with the best hotels—but it will costs you absolutely nothing. In the words of Don Corleone himself it is "an offer you can’t refuse.” I just hope I don’t find a horse’s head in my bed for sharing these well-kept secrets with you.