Fashion - Down the aisle in Style

  ACTRESS KATIE HOLMES walked down the aisle in a gown by Giorgio Armani at her much-publicised Italian wedding to film star, Tom Cruise; singer Cheryl Tweedy wore a wedding dress by Roberto Cavalli at her marriage to footballer Ashley Cole who also wore a suit (as did the best man) by Cavalli; and Liz Hurley is rumoured to be wearing 13 wedding dresses at her UK and Indian wedding later this year.

  The Wedding industry – and Celebrity Weddings – are big business and a designer wedding dress is THE choice for today’s star bride who wants an original, one-off design.
  Bridal wear is subject to the same moods and trends as couture and ready-to-wear and designers, recognising the increasing importance of this buoyant market and the unrivalled publicity from a celebrity wedding photo splashed across the front pages or featured in gossip magazines, include it in their main collections.
  Their influence is invaluable as their designs filter down to the high street and set the trends for the coming season.

IF IT’S GOOD ENOUGH FOR HOLLYWOOD…

  One of the most exciting bridal designers is Elie Saab, who has taken the fashion world by storm ever since his first haute couture collection was shown in Rome in 1997. This season his ‘glamorously romantic’ white and off-white wedding gowns are strapless, full skirted and voluminous, in lace, organza with tulle, taffetas and guipure, eyelet lace and silk broche.
  Born in Lebanon, Elie was the first foreign designer to present a Spring/Summer haute couture collection at the Roma ‘Alta Moda’ week in 1997, where he has shown ever since. The following year, 1998, his ready-towear line, manufactured exclusively in Italy, made its debut at the first 1998/9 autumn/winter shows in Milan. It was a great success and orders flew in from all over the world.

  An international designer, he has dressed Hollywood movie stars such as Halle Berry, Catherine Zeta Jones and Debra Messing at award ceremonies. Some of that Hollywood glamour has influenced his bridal collection, especially this spring where the overall look is very glamorous ‘one of a kind’, romantic and elegant.
  One of the biggest trends is ruffles – fun, feminine and sexy, worn around the neck they really flatter the bride’s face. Elie has them in a deep cleavage-showing V with a wide satin ribbon at empire line tying in a big side bow (another very important detail) on a white lace sleeveless bias-cut net underlay swishing long dress; in a dainty frill on a simple strapless lace dress; or in elegant full-length tiers.

VALENTINO FOR THE NEW SEASON

  Valentino has exuberant BIG ruffles on a bolero jacket over a slender tiered silk/satin and lace white dress; sheer and draping on a figure-hugging one-shoulder lace sheath dress with long ruffle-edged veil; or subtle in lace on the shoulders and round the hem of a slinky bandeau ivory silk elegant long dress…
  One of the most important and innovative haute couture creators in the fashion world today, Valentino’s bridal gowns have all the glamour, imagination and elegance synonymous with his name.
  Ever since his early days in Rome in the 1960s, when he opened his first atelier and word of his genius started to spread among the Hollywood stars who came to film in the city, he has been considered the indisputable maestro of Italian couture, with women as elegant as Farah Diba, Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis, Liz Taylor, Marella Agnelli and Princess Margaret among his customers and friends.
  His career has been long and rewarding. As a talented adolescent he left the town of his birth, Voghera, for Paris where he learnt his trade working with Jean Desses and Guy Laroche, before returning to Rome. In 2000 he celebrated 40 years in the fashion world in America, where he was awarded the Lifetime Achievement Award of the Council of Fashion Designers of America, with a charity ball co-hosted by Steven Spielberg, Kate Capshaw, Tom Hanks and Rita Wilson.

  His bridal gowns this season are utterly pretty and romantic, with gentle drapes in delicate tulles and laces, with extra emphasis on detail and textures such as macramé, organza and soleil pleating.
  No one will ever forget a wedding dress with clever details and Valentino has it to perfection! Bows are everywhere and another favourite detail this spring, either big or dainty.
  Valentino has an elegant satin flat-bow belt on a beautiful, almost sheer, lace V-neck sleeve dress; as a dainty lace bow softly tied under the bust on a strapless silk/satin finely pleated dropwaist, full-skirted long gown; or bigger and bolder yet still oh-so-feminine, in satin on the sleeves and waist of an intricate lace, tiered from neck to hem, full-length dress.
  Texture is important this season with the emphasis on lace and luxurious fabrics. Shapes are inspired by the film stars of the 1930s with slinky satin figure-hugging dresses cut on the bias in strapless, cowlneck or low-cut styles, or the Empire line which flatters all shapes and is either fuller and floaty in soft silky chiffon layers, or ultra slim. Halter necks are sexy and dramatic in lace with a big full chiffon ruffle at the hem, while the strapless corset top dress is stylish and romantic with a slinky skirt or demure, full Princess-style.

LINKS WITH THE PAST

While full-length and fabulous is the favoured and traditional length, there is a strong trend for short wedding dresses that are thoroughly modern. Favourite looks are simply sweet in white floaty and/or full-skirted retro styles, dropwaisted lace 20s-inspired, or short and sexy as in Donatella Versace’s cutaway shiny shift dress, or short beaded 60s shift with train.
  Another short alternative is the suit – but not just an ordinary suit; it has to be special,which is where Bottega Veneta comes in. For the past few seasons, designer Thomas Maier has been championing understated luxury and a complete look aimed at grown women and has built an impressive following by doing just that. This Spring his subtle, elegant designs in a beige-to-rose palette are just stunning and his papery pink suit with fitted jacket with deep-frill long sleeves and slightly ‘bubble’ skirt is perfect for a registry office, city or second-time around wedding.
  Indeed, his sophisticated, refined collection of dresses and suits worn with high sandals and soft, woven leather matching bags would make ideal mother-of-thebride wear, as would Giorgio Armani’s great jackets and silk tea-length skirts with their huge hats or tiny head pieces.

A HEAD OF THE GAME

  Versace, too, has a sophisticated pink button-up coat with standup collar worn with slick city shorts that would be perfect for the sister of the bride, as would Alessandro Dell’Acqua’s short 60s-inspired full-sleeved coat, or delicate embroidered chiffons.
  What does the well-dressed bride wear on her head this season? Veils add an air of mystery and romance whatever the style of dress and are still favourite in varying styles, including full-length and ruffletrimmed, worn with a lace mantilla-style headdress (both Valentino), as a sheer all-over romantic cover (Elie Saab). Or it can be short, full and sassy. Smart alice bands are popular with the short retro styles, more traditional tiaras give chic neat hairstyles a feminine touch, while Bottega Veneta has an elegant 50s-style hat with his sophisticated suit.
  Whether it’s a classically beautiful dress, something subtle, sexy, retro, romantic, or full-on drama, bridal wear from catwalk to the high street has the look for the bride, whatever her style, on her Big Day.